” A mind is like a parachute; it doesn’t work if it isn’t open” (Frank Zappa)
Imagine you go for a day hike and get lost in the jungle. By early afternoon you accept that you aren’t getting home that day and prepare for an unplanned night in the jungle. As you look for a stream to camp by, the afternoon rains give you a soaking. Maybe you didn’t bring a pack with you but you do have your trusty parang, knife and firesteel hanging from your belt. You rig-up a makeshift shelter and prepare yourself for a night in the jungle.
As the daylight fades, what frame of mind would you be in? Frustrated? – Miserable? – Worried? – Scared?
Something that is guaranteed to lift your spirits is a fire, so you pull out your firesteel and…
…and what? There’s no easy to find dry tinder – the rain and humidity keep everything moist – maybe you fire showers of sparks onto some dead, wet leaves, or damp bark scrapings to absolutely no avail whilst cursing those TV commercials that promised a firesteel “lights a fire every time, no matter what the conditions” and wishing you had a lighter instead.
Many people overrate firesteels – with very dry tinder or any of the (many) possible artificial tinders, firesteels work like magic. Almost anyone can pick up a firesteel and quickly produce lots of hot sparks …“and if I can get sparks I can get fire, right?”
The answer to that is ‘it depends’: it depends on your technique, your knowledge of where to find good tinder material and your skill at preparing the tinder. This is the heart of the problem – the firesteel is a deceptive tool that appears to need almost no skill or training to use whereas (in difficult conditions at least) that’s exactly what’s required.
For a long time I decided it wasn’t even worth carrying a firesteel as a secondary firestarting tool (preferring a back-up lighter instead). It was a reluctant decision as the firesteel has one key advantage that I really appreciate – it is robust: you can attach it to your parang sheath and more-or-less forget about it until it’s needed. The other reason this was a reluctant decision was that, and let’s be honest here, firesteels are a satisfying and fun way of lighting a fire. I enjoy using them.
What changed my mind? Well, as it happens, making this video was the catalyst as I set four tests that, if the firesteel could pass, would justify re-evaluating it as a jungle survival tool.
The thinking behind the tests was this:
Rubber inner tube test: Inner tube is something I always carry, it burns when wet and has a good burn time (but is very smelly!).
But what if, for whatever reason, I didn’t have any inner tube? The first thing I would look for is bamboo.
Bamboo shavings test: Dead bamboo keeps (relatively) dry thanks to its outer skin. Lighting up shavings is reasonably easy as long as you prepare them properly. You might think I am overstating the need for preparation of this tinder but all I can say is that I have watched many, many people fail to light up bamboo shavings and that there is a big difference between sun-dried bamboo that you find in clearings and the more damp bamboo you find in the jungle.
What if there is no bamboo around?
Feather stick test: At the the core of large enough branches you should find dry wood (unless the whole branch has started to rot) so here is a potential source of dry tinder in wet conditions. I decided not to use ‘ideal’ wood but rather pick a branch more-or-less at random and use that for the test.
Charred materials test: if you were in a real survival situation and managed to light your first fire with one of the methods above, the rest should be plain sailing. Why? Simply because you now have the ability to make charred materials: charcloth willl light up with a single spark and old firedogs can be restarted with a bit of effort (and a lot of blowing!)
The revelation for me was to discover that firesteels can light up inner tube. I had dismissed the possibility of this after a few earlier attempts but was galvanized into retrying the method after hearing of Jim’s (a Canadian friend who was in Malaysia for while….thanks Jim!) success with this tinder. After a bit of experimenting I found a method that worked for me and happily accepted that the firesteel had now passed all four tests and promptly attached one to my parang sheath.
If you think you may, one day, have to rely on a firesteel in a jungle survival situation, then I would encourage you to try these tests for yourself (or devise your own tests). Even if you fail, at least you will know in advance… rather than it being an unpleasant discovery on a rainy night somewhere deep in the jungle…and remember that, with practice, what you can’t do today you will be able to do in time.
Another alternative to the firesteel rod would be to carry a magnesium firestarting bar; much better in my opinion than a firesteel rod.
You can scrape the magnesium off into shavings from one side of the bar and then light it with the in-built metal rod on the other side using your carbon knife(I think the rod is made of iron but not really sure). With this, you are quaranteed to have a good combustible material to give you a strong initial burst of flame even in the wet.
I would rate the magnesium firestarting bar a tad more advantageous than the firesteel rod. The magnesium bar isn’t too much heavier or larger than a firesteel rod and it is easy to carry.
Hi Freelander,
Great to hear from you and a good point you make – those rods (I think they’re called misch metal rods or something) would certainly get round the problem of ignition when it’s wet. I’ve not used one but seen them in action on Youtube – definitely an alternative to a firesteel – the fatwood handled firesteel kind of takes the same approach (i.e. built in tinder)
Cheers!
Paul
Hi Paul,
Good demo on use of the firesteel. As a certified kit monster I have many but I have found one that is very good and fits all the requirements you presented.
http://www.aussiesurvivaltools.com/
This has a type of fat wood on that you can scrape off as tinder it also has a magnesium bar and also the ferro rod.
Look in to it you just might like it.
Swampy.
Hi Swampy,
Thanks for the link and I took a look at the aussi survival tool…as you say, it covers all the bases and with both Magnesium and fatwood shouldn’t let you down. Maybe not as easy to fix to a sheath as the standard firesteel but then it offers more fire starting power.
Cheers!
Paul
Hi Paul,
Absolutely great video.
Your skills are impressive. Liked your test, I’ll definitely try it when I got into the Jungle.
When I read my first survival book, the Firesteel appeared to me as a no-default item.
Then the TV survival show(s) made me buy one.
My opinion kept changing about it: That’s perfect/ That’s just a useless toy.
I used a few of them (way more than lighters haha).
Actually, I managed to light fires in poor conditions. Even well below freezing.
I now see it as a game, as a skill to improve.
It’s a really fun way to light a fire.
It forces you to prepare your fire, to understand the principles of fire-building.
I got two lighters on me+ my funky rod 🙂
Many thanks for your website.
Wawa!
Hi Wawa,
Glad you liked the video and hope it helps – the thing with any tool is to practice and, at the same time, understand the limitations created by the environment you’re in. For people living in areas with pine trees a plenty, the firesteel is much easier to use, similarly birch bark etc all make life much easier. In the jungle there are plenty of natural tinders that work very well with the firesteel when dry….but when all is wet it’s a different story!
Cheers!
Paul
Hey Paul.
How bout a video of now to make a sheath like in the vid. Not sure if you made that one. Some guys on Youtube are doing vids on making the sheath by boiling a piece of PVC pipe then flattening it when it gets soft.
Hi Grayson,
Thanks for the comment and a good point you make about PVC sheaths. I made one of these a couple of years back and there’s a video about it somewhere on my site. PVC is a very quick and cheap option for a sheath (and many of the locals use it) – the only problem with PVC (particularly if thin) is that it can crack. Saying that the sheath I made is still okay today.
My preference now is to thermoform the plastic runner sheets that are buried underground when laying down main electrical wires. That stuff is very strong indeed!
Kydex is great stuff but it is expensive!
Cheers!
Paul
its called a slow match was first used with flintlock type rifles and cannons, nice vid,
Hi Crocket,
Thanks for the comment and very glad you liked the video. The tinder tube in the video is rope soaked in melted wax, I think (but am not entirely sure) that slow matches referred more to raw cotton rope (sometimes impregnated with potassium nitrate) same thing I remember using as a child for lighting up fireworks….but maybe they also used wax in slow matches.
Anyway, thanks again for the comment.
Cheers!
Paul
Excellent, informative video!! I particularly enjoyed learning how to light an inner tube with a Fsteel!
I do not, however, agree with the opinion firesteels are valid as a primary firestarting method in a wilderness situation. I do, in fact, subscribe to the earlier opinion that these tools are unnecessary and overrated. I base this on my observations of firestarting methods of indigenous peoples around the world.
I feel in any given situation that local inhabitants, hunters and outdoorsmen typically use the most appropriate, effective and practical firemaking methods for that area. In my travels in NW Europe, E Europe, the Mid East, Africa, Phillipines, Indonesia, Hawaii, N. USA and S. Canada I have never, ever found locals using a firesteel as a primary fire starting method. I have observed that locals in these locations use the following firestarting methods in this order:
1. Off brand (Bic type) wheel lighter used in a conventional manner, not as a spark generator.
2. Paper matches.
3. Zippo type lighters.
4. Wooden strike anywhere matches.
In each case, tinder was scrap paper, tissue or toilet paper. In each case, waterproofing was accomplished with a knotted grocery bag, zip lock baggie or immersion in wax.
Its not that I disapprove of firesteels or spark strikers. I simply feel that in the places I’ve visited they are unnecessary and impractical when compared to the more available and inexpensive methods used by locals.
I have viewed, enjoyed and learned from all your videos. Sir, you do good work.
Hi Kamfongaschinho,
Many thanks for the comment and I am in agreement with just about all you say there – I think a firesteel as a primary firelighting method is simply making life more difficult than necessary. I always take in a lighter and, unless I am in the mood for messing about with friction fires/firesteels etc, then that is what I use.
What worries me about firesteels is that some people think that they will be able to get a fire going ‘should they need to’ – but don’t actually try in a real life situations and that was the point I was trying to make….that if you may have to rely on one then either practice beforehand with natural tinders/inner tube etc or take in tinder with you.
Saying that, firesteels do have the advantage of being robust and, as long as they are protected from corrosion (I dip mine in varnish) can be chucked in a bag or attached to a sheath and forgotten about until needed.
But I like the idea of trying to sell the idea of a firesteel to a local Orang Asli! – I think I’d get some strange looks, particularly when I tell them the price! Certainly all the Orang Asli I’ve met simply use a lighter.
Anyway, very glad you like some of the videos and thanks for the interesting perspective of someone so well traveled.
Cheers!
Paul
HI great Youtube review. As you say in Australia everything is dry and not only that most herbaceous and of course all Eucalyptus contain flammable oils and will burn even green in a pinch. It’s like all these videos out there on batoning. I’ve never had to baton anything whilst camping in outback Australia as there is always tinder if you know what you are doing. Good to see some proper jungle action just to remind people it’s not all dry out there. Also I have noted that there are “good fire steels” and not so good one depending on the “alloy of components” that they are made from and one should be aware of this before you have to depend on your steel to light a fire.
How about some vids on a lighting a fire with the old bamboo strips via friction in the jungle?
Hi Frank,
Many thanks for the comment and I agree with you that there are definitely good and bad fire steels – I use the light my fire army ones which seem pretty good but I also have some other non-branded ones that don’t work quite as well.
A while back I was sent out to an inland mineral drilling rig for a few days in the outback of Australia so I know what you mean about everything being super dry – I have never been so hot, dehydrated and sun burned as I was out there! Compared to the outback the jungle is a relatively easy environment to survive in…however the jungle is almost always damp and splitting wood is usually the norm (although I find myself using gluts rather than heavy duty batoning with the parang).
Thanks for the point about bamboo strips and friction fire – I did do an early video on the fire saw but keep meaning to try out the fire thong with bamboo strips (instead of rattan) – so I’ll add it to the to-do list!
Thanks again,
Cheers!
Paul
Hi Paul,
The video is still great, I keep comin at it when I want to play with my FS.
I got one problem though, I can’t get very thin Inner tube strips with my mora. part of the problem is that I can’t get a sharp edge at the point of my mora, due to the curve of the point.
The only way I can get really thin strips of IT is using a pair of scissors. Wich I won’t bring in the outdoors…
If you have any kind of advice…
Thank you.
Wawa
Hi Wawa,
Thanks for the comment and good that are you are trying out these techniques with the firesteel for yourself as that is the only way you truly learn.
To cut the strips of inner tube I just use a fingernail as a guide and carefully slice them off (as if cutting thin strips of meat). It may be that your knife isn’t sharp enough so you might want to try sharpening it up first. Sharpening knives is a subject that there are many opinions on but, for me, using wet stones is the quickest and easiest method. I didn’t have anyone to teach me when I first started sharpening knives and I remember finding it quite frustrating at first (I could get the knife sharp but not razor sharp). However, there are loads of Youtube videos on how to to do it and Moras are quite easy ones to sharpen. If you just keep practising at it you will get there in the end. Most of the Mora models now seem to have a secondary bevel which I remove as I prefer a flat Scandi grind without. Also, once you’ve finished sharpening on the stones, don’t forget to strop the blade too.
The base line test for minimum sharpness of your knife is that it should be able to slice cleanly through a piece of paper without ripping it….that’s what you want to aim for to start with.
Hope that helps,
Cheers!
Paul
Hi all,
Sorry for previsious posting, here is the place I should put the question…
Nice to find this page, keep up the great work!!!
Please may I find out an answer? What kind of fire-steel did you use in your video?
Maybe how can I get one? (webshop, other ways? – I am currently located in europe/RO)
Thank you!
Cheers, Attila
Hi Attila,
Just replied to your other post but I’ll put here as well:
Many thanks for the comment and support and sorry for slow reply (been away) – the fire steel I’m using in the video is a LMF (Light My Fire) model, I think it is called the army version and here is the amazon link for it.
Hope that helps,
Cheers!
Paul
Not sure if you mentioned it anywhere, but you talked about the firesteel being bad with wet tinder conditions….You have in your particular kit a machete with what appears to be a wood handle…. With your bushcraft knife, you can shave the handle on your machete, or even Do a split wood fire in wet conditions, and shave or scrape the inner material and have a lightable tinder in almost any condition. But the scrapings from the handle of your machete “in an emergency” would make a great tinder starter.
Hi Feellnfroggy,
Many thanks for the tip and you’re right that the wooden handle could be used if there’s nothing else around. One thing I do that is a great upgrade for a firesteel is to replace the plastic handle with one made from fat wood….fat wood is very easy to light up with a firesteel.
Anyway thanks again for the tip,
Cheers!
Paul